Wet underfloor heating typically takes 1–3 hours to warm up, depending on the floor construction, screed thickness, insulation, and floor covering.
Tile and stone floors usually transfer heat faster than carpeted floors. Underfloor heating is designed to provide steady, consistent heat, and it is usually run for longer periods, rather than switched on and off like radiators.
Underfloor heating takes longer to warm up than radiators because it has a high thermal mass. While radiators quickly heat the surrounding air via convection, underfloor systems must first heat a thick layer of screed or flooring material before that warmth radiates into the room.
However, this dense thermal mass is exactly what makes it so efficient. Once the floor reaches temperature, it retains and distributes heat evenly for hours with minimal energy input. Because it covers a massive surface area, it only requires water heated to around 29°C—compared to a radiator’s 70°C—significantly reducing your boiler’s workload and lowering running costs.
If you would like a quote for your project or you are thinking of swapping over your old radiator system to underfloor heating, click the quote button below and we’ll look forward to hearing from you!
Wet underfloor heating systems are usually cheap to run and can cost less than radiators, especially in a well-insulated home.
Underfloor heating systems are significantly more efficient than a traditional radiator systems. Radiators need water heated to high temperatures (around 70°C to 80°C) to effectively warm a room, which demands significant energy from your boiler.
In contrast, underfloor heating covers a much larger surface area, and only needs water heated to a mild 29°C to achieve the same comfortable room temperature. This substantial drop in required temperature means your heat source works less, consuming less fuel and lowering your energy bills.
Furthermore, it distributes heat evenly across the entire room, eliminating cold spots and energy-wasting drafts.
Actual running costs depend on insulation, energy prices, and how the system is used.
Get in touch if you are interested in a free quote for your home
Yes, carpets can be used with wet underfloor heating but with a few considerations.
Thicker carpets and underlays reduce heat transfer, making the system less efficient and lowering heat output.
Thinner carpets and those with lower tog ratings perform much better and transfer more of the heat from the system into the room, resulting in a warmer property and more efficient setup.
Porcelain or Ceramic Tiles are generally regarded as the best floor coverings for use with underfloor heating systems and conduct heat exceptionally well. They don’t block heat; instead, they act like a sponge, soaking up the heat from the underfloor heating pipes below and transferring it quickly into the room. These type of tiles also have no heat limit and can be used at any temperature without warping, cracking or discolouring.
Natural Stone, Engineered Wood, and Luxury Vinyl Tiles (LVT) also work well IF rated for underfloor heating. We would never recommend using any flooring products that are not rated for underfloor heating usage, as there is no way to know if these are suitable and/or safe.
Carpet can be used as a floor covering on top of an underfloor heating system, however, it should have a low combined tog rating (carpet + underlay) to avoid reducing heat output and efficiency. The tog rating will directly affect how much heat is transferred into the room from your heating system.
If you have any questions feel free to give us a call any time and one of our heating experts will be happy to help you.
A properly designed wet underfloor heating system can usually heat a whole home without radiators, especially in well-insulated properties.
There are some reasons that a property may need radiators as well as underfloor heating for example:
If you plan to install underfloor heating in a certain area (such as a ground floor or a bathroom), then it would be recommended to keep the radiators on the remaining floors / areas.
If you plan to install underfloor heating throughout all areas of the property then the radiators are superfluous and can be removed.
The removal of radiators from your home can immediately make the space look much more modern and also more functional with more useable space.
There are a huge number of benefits to installing and using underfloor heating in your home. Firstly it gives you greater control over which rooms receive certain levels of heat at certain times of day, and secondly it provides energy efficient, direct heat as and when you need it.
This can be time and temperature controlled using a programmable thermostat that connects to your heating system. However, on particularly cold days, you may be tempted to leave your underfloor heating to run for the majority of the time – but just how safe is this to do, and is it recommended?
Is it ok to leave my underfloor Heating System switched on all day?
Relax! Leaving your underfloor heating on all day won’t cause any harm to your system.
Leaving your underfloor heating system switched on all day during particularly cold seasons won’t cause any harm – in fact, it’s not a bad idea. Leaving your heating on will encourage faster efficiency and warming up times, meaning that you are less likely to feel chilly for longer.
There is a big misconception of this method when using underfloor heating which is why programmable thermostats with underfloor heating go hand in hand. Our underfloor heating systems are made entirely from the highest quality materials.
A well built underfloor heating system can be left on all day with no issues, if anything it can be better for your house and property to be kept at an even temperature. You can buy DIY underfloor heating kits here from our online store and get everything you need delivered to your door.
Pipe layout diagrams for your Underfloor Heating system
Depending on the system you have been supplied, you have a couple of options when laying your pipework.
Option 1 – SERPENTINE
With this method, you run your pipe work towards the far corner from where you enter the room, then snake the pipe back at the centres specified. To avoid kinking the pipe at the turns, it is recommended to have the turns be larger spacings in a ‘lightbulb’ fashion.
Option 2 – COUNTERFLOW
Once again work your pipe work towards the far corner from where you enter the room but instead of heading back you will want to start working towards the middle of the room in double the pipe spacing that is specified (300mm for a finished spacing of 150mm).
As you approach the centre you will then be able to turn back on yourself and work your way back between the pipe you have laid so that each pipe spacing is now half what you were laying it as.
This system is good for tighter pipe spacings as the risk of kinking the pipe is much lower.
Installing Underfloor Heating on Screed / Concrete Floors
Solid floors can be constructed in a number of ways:
Single pour concrete method Under floor heating pipe work is fixed to insulation and concrete is poured over the top.
Screeded floor method Concrete floor is already in place, insulation is laid on the top of the concrete under floor heating pipe work is then fixed to insulation and screeded over.
There are various variations of these methods. dependant on builders preferences
Installing Underfloor Heating in a Timber Floor using screed between joists
Build a subfloor (min 25mm from top line of joists) between the floor joists using a good quality dense board insulation supported on timber battens fixed to the side of the joist. Then fix the under floor heating pipe work to the insulation, screed the floor flush with the top of the joists. The floor will then require a structural board over once the screed has been allowed to dry. Note when using this floor construction method consideration needs to be given the added weight on the floor joists
Installing Underfloor Heating in a Timber Floor Using Aluminium Plates
Insulate in between your joists using either a board or quilt insulation. Then nail your aluminium plates to your joists leaving a least 200mm at each end of the runs where your pipe will turn. Then you run your pipe in the aluminium plates.
Building an Underfloor Heating Manifold
Inside the box:
Brass Manifold with Mixer Valve
Circulating Pump
Inserts for Pipe
Set of Ball Valves with washers
End piece with drain valves and pressure gauge
Thermostatic head
Build the manifold before fixing to the wall. Start by screwing in the end piece into the top manifold body. Make sure the pressure gauge is facing you once the end piece is fully screwed in. If adjustment is needed use the rotating nut to adjust then tighten back up.
Attach the ball valves to the manifold as per picture. Red on the right (Flow) and blue on left (Return). Make sure you use the rubber washers provided before attaching them to the mixer valve, then fully tighten.
Turn the circulating pump to the left so it is facing you. Then tighten the top and bottom nuts. Now the manifold is ready to fix to the wall.
Installing the Underfloor Heating Manifold
The Manifold unit can be installed directly on the wall or a suitable mounting board by securing it’s brackets with suitable fixings (depending on the kind of wall). These need to be inserted into the designated holes, the mounting surface should be flat and vertical.
The mounting bracket holes can be used to mark the fixing positions and the manifold unit screwed to the wall/ mounting surface using suitable fixings ensuring that the assembly is level. The pump should be turned to face forwards to avoid fouling the wall/ mounting surface where the Manifold Unit is to be mounted, check the overall dimensions of the Mixing Unit using the table and drawing below.
Ensure that there is room for the isolating valves and fittings below the mixing unit inlet connections and leave at least 300mm from the lower manifold rail to the floor to prevent damage to the pipes where they enter the floor.
How To Connect Underfloor Heating Pipe to the Manifold
Ensure you cut the MLCP pipe square with sharp plastic pipe cutters, It is essential to open the inner bore of the pipe with a pipe reamer tool to avoid damage to the O-rings when inserting into the monoblocco fitting. Insert the pipe into the sealing union until it is fully home, then turn the nut until the inspection slot lines up with the slot in the gripping ring and check that the pipe has been inserted all the way.
Note – To make insertion of underfloor heating pipe easier, if necessary wet the end of the pipe and/or the fitting with clean water only. Lubrication with oil or grease will do irreparable damage to the O-rings of the fitting.
Screw the nut onto the manifold and tighten with a 27mm spanner without using excessive force. When tightening pipe onto manifold fittings, hold fitting with spanner whilst tightening pipe nut. Once the pipe has been connected to the flow manifold, laid according to pipe layout drawing and connected back into the corresponding return manifold connection, it is now a complete circuit. When all circuits are fitted and secured, take time to check over pipe work and ensure the spacing’s are correct and there are no kinks in the pipe.
Fixing Rail Installation (Solid Screed Floor)
The fixing rail is used to make sure the pipe is installed evenly in the room or rooms. It is divided into 50mm spacings. So for instance if you are installing your pipe work at 200mm centres then you would clip the first pipe in 100mm from the wall then you leave three clips and turn the pipe back into the fixing rail and clip into the fourth clip this equates to 200mm. Insulation clips are used to fix rails in place
Fixing rail spacing
The top rail on the drawing where the pipe enters the room need to be 500mm from the top wall. The bottom rail needs to be 300mm from the bottom wall (see Fig 1) and then place a final strip in the middle of the top and bottom rails to keep the pipe runs nice and straight.
NOTE Remember to allow enough pipe to connect from the room to the underfloor heating manifold (the packs contain a small amount of excess pipe for connections).
It is important to bend the pipe in a “light bulb” shape to avoid kinking if anything less than 200mm centres are used.
Before installation please read the fitting, filling & commissioning instructions carefully, these are tried and tested to provide you with excellent results.
*Typical screed floor with a depth of 65mm
IMPORTANT POINTS Please remember that it is very important that the pipe is laid with due care and is not kinked when being installed. Electrical control wiring & Flow and return pipe work is required, ensure that this is in place prior to finishing work is carried out. (Please see drawings or Phone us on 0800 232 1501)
Installing Underfloor Heating using Screed between joists
200mm pipe centres (Room up to current Building Regs) When installing underfloor heating into a timber floor at 200mm centres pipe work is usually laid as 2 runs per joists (if joist are at 400mm centres). Notch the end of the joists about 100mm from wall this will carry UFH pipe coming into the room and the pipe work turning into the next joist .Clips should be every 1m-1.5m.
150mm Pipe Centres (Room with High Heat Loss i.e. Conservatory) When installing underfloor heating into a timber floor at 150mm centres pipe work is usually laid at 3 runs in each joist. Notch the end of the joists about 100mm every other notch should be big enough to take 2 pipes. Also you will need to notch the other end of the joists, every other joist should be notched at opposite ends to the notch where the pipe work comes in. Clips should be every 1m-1.5m.
Installing Underfloor Heating using Aluminium Plates
Once all the circuits are installed the system must be filled and pressure tested. For this you will need mains water supply and a garden hose, follow the step by step instructions below.
The manifold mixer has a built-in non return valve to ensure that the underfloor heating circuits can be simply filled from the drain and fill valves fitted to manifolds. To use the non-return valve the underfloor heating circuits must be filled using the drain and fill valve fitted to the upper rail only – it will not work if the lower drain and fill valve is used to fill the circuits.
To fill the manifold correctly you will need to isolate the loops. On the top manifold rail, work from right to left and close the flowmeters by rotating the red collar clockwise Fig 2. When you get to the last flowmeter make sure this one is rotated fully anti- clockwise Fig 3 for 3 and a half turns and then click the red collar down. Once the collar is down you then use the 19mm Spanner Flats Fig 4 to fully open the loop. (If this is not done you will not get any water into the loop).
On the bottom manifold rail again work from right to left and close blue isolators by rotating clockwise Fig 5. When you get to the last blue isolator turn this one anti-clockwise to open. Fig 6.
Once only one flowmeter and blue isolator are open on the manifold rotate the Red and Blue ball valves so the levers are horizontal.
Open the Auto Air Valve by rotating the grey Cap 1 turn anti clockwise. Connect mains water to the top Fill valve, and connect a piece of hose onto the bottom fill valve and place the end into a bucket. Open the fill & drain valves by placing the opening tool attached onto the end of the fill & drain valves and rotate toward you to open. Now manifold is ready for filling.
Now turn the mains water on, once the water comes out of the bottom fill point this indicates that the first loop is fully purged. Isolate this loop and move onto the next and repeat the process using the steps on the previous page.
When the final loop is full open all the loops on the manifold turn off the bottom fill point. Use the mains water pressure test the manifold, once the pressure is stabilised shut off the top fill point and turn the hose off. In normal circumstances you should get at least 3 bar on the pressure gauge. If mains water pressure is lower a pressure testing pump may be required.
Once you have installed the underfloor heating, filled & pressure tested, connected the flow and return pipework to the manifold. If the floor is a solid screed floor before following these steps make sure that the floor has been allowed to naturally cure in accordance with the screed manufacturer guidelines.
Open Ball valves by turning red / blue levers inline.
Connect the thermostatic head to the mixer.
Set water temperature to low (20°c) on the thermostatic head.
Slowly increase the temperature over the next 4 weeks.
Remove all the white caps (if multi zone) on the bottom manifold body and attach the actuators to the manifold. If using a single zone system leave the blue caps connected and make sure they are turned fully anti clockwise.
Bleed any air out of the manifold that may have entered when you opened flow and return. Bleed air using the auto air vent located above the temperature gauge.
Turn on one thermostat at a time and check that the boiler turns on.
On a multizone system check that all thermostats individually open the right loops. The black tag of the actuator should lift. On a single zone system check the zone valve has opened.
Check the pump is running, the green lights should be lit.
Check the flowmeters are open and adjust flow rates refer to next page.
Hot water should now be running through the manifold from the top body into the floor and returning to the bottom body.
Check any other zones i.e. radiators/hot water that these are working correctly.
Turn off the thermostats and check the actuators, pump & boiler have turned off. Boiler may still run if other zones are calling for heat or boiler has a pump over run.
The initial warm up period will take a long time as the floor is cold and will remove all the heat from the pipe work. This will result in the water entering the floor (top body) will be warm as stated by temperature gauge & the water coming up to the bottom body will be cold. The floor temperature should be gradually increased over a number of days as not to damage the concrete/screed floor.
Underfloor Heating Flowmeter Adjustment
How to balance the circuits using flowmeters Flowmeters have a double regulating function i.e. they not only adjust water flow but also include an isolating function which can be opened and closed without affecting the flow setting. The flowmeter has an inner combined flow regulator and flowmeter, see Fig 7, and an outer red collar. The red collar, (1) is used for isolating the valve. The inner regulator is used to set the flow in the circuit, increasing or decreasing the flow by using the 19 mm spanner flats provided, see Fig 8. The change in flow can be read in the scale on the flowmeter tube. Check the valve is in the fully open position. To check isolating valve following the instructions below:
Turn the red collar anticlockwise approximately three and a half turns. You will see the whole of the flowmeter rotating and rising. If the valve is over-rotated – more than three and a half turns – then the internal plastic threads can become damaged and cause leaks. If you reach the positive stop please rotate back half a turn.
You are now ready to use the flow regulating function. Lower the red collar until it touches the manifold (1). Then using a 19mm spanner, or your fingers, adjust the flow using the black spanner flats at the bottom of the flowmeter (2). You can read the required flow in litres per minute directly from the red indicator against the scale in the clear flow meter tube. When you have set the required flow rate, raise the red collar (1) again, until it is engaged against the black spanner flats at the bottom of the flowmeter (2), see Fig 9.
Cleaning the Underfloor heating flowmeter tube Turn the red collar (1) clockwise, until the isolating function is fully closed. Remove the flowmeter tube by securing the black spanner flats, then using either hand pressure or a 17mm ring spanner, gently unscrew the flowmeter tube anticlockwise. Clean the tube and screw it back on. Turn the red collar (1) anticlockwise until the isolating valve is fully open again.
About the mixing unit
The unique design of the internal mixing valve components ensure that hot water from the heat source and return water from the underfloor circuit are mixed together in the valve body to produce a temperature range between 20°C to 70°C. This temperature range suits a range of underfloor heating applications from commissioning new floor screeds to operating with very thick screed in commercial applications. The following illustrations show how the mixing valve operates through its remote sensing thermostatic head.
How an Underfloor Heating mixer valve works
The Mixing valve is pre-assembled onto the manifold for time saving installation. At its heart is the Thermostatic Mixing valve which is a specifically designed mixing unit to ensure accurate temperature control of underfloor heating. The unique design of the internal mixing valve components ensures that hot water from the heat source and return water from the underfloor circuit are mixed together in the valve body to produce a range of temperatures from 20°C to 70°C. This range of temperatures suits the whole field of underfloor heating applications, from commissioning new floor screeds to operating with very thick floor screeds in commercial applications. The illustrations below show how the mixing valve operates through its remote sensing thermostatic head:
Initially the cool liquid in the remote sensing probe, allows almost all of the primary hot water from the heat source through the valve. Gradually the temperature of the probe rises as the underfloor circuits begin to warm up
Depending on the temperature setting of the thermostatic head, as the temperature of the probe rises, the shuttle starts to close off the primary hot water allowing return water to maintain the temperature set on the head, up to 70°C if required
Once the temperature set on the head has been reached at the probe, the shuttle balances the right amount of primary hot water and secondary return water to maintain this temperature. Depending on the thermostat setting, the hot water could be almost completely closed off allowing very low temperatures suitable for commissioning screed floors right down to 20°C if required.
The thermostatic mixing valve has a flow increase valve which allows return water to flow directly into the mixed water outlet. This cools the mixed water temperature sensed by the remote phial and causes the mixing valve to open allowing more primary hot water through the mixing chamber and raises the temperature to the setting on the head
Underfloor Heating Operating Instructions
There are two main elements of control for your underfloor heating; one is a programmable thermostat and the other is a thermostatic head.
Programmable Thermostat This thermostat gives you the ability to set overall time control with two different temperature settings. As with a more conventional heating system the first temperature setting is used to provide a comfortable living environment (typically 21°C) for the time you spend in the room.
The second setting can be used to provide a facility called NIGHT SETBACK. Night setback is where the second temperature setting is at a much lower level (typically 16°C).
Setting the clock thermostat to the night setback temperature will turn the boiler and pumps off until the temperature programmable thermostat drops below 16°C.
The night setback stops the room from cooling right down during the night so that the room can be brought up to a comfortable working temperature quicker and more efficiently in the morning. To set the time and temperature on the programmable thermostat refer to the user instructions provided with the thermostat.
THERMOSTATIC HEAD This piece of equipment is situated at the manifold and its purpose is to blend down the high temperature water from the boiler to a lower temperature suitable for underfloor heating.
The thermostatic mixing valve can be set on the thermostatic head from 20 to 70°C as follows:
Turn the knob of the thermostatic head, to set the required underfloor flow temperature
Allow sufficient time for the temperature to stabilise, then check the setting against the temperature reading on the mixed flow temperature gauge fitted to the mixer valve located above the pump
Temperature setting lock The thermostatic head is provided with two setting pins, one red and the other blue. These pins are provided to lock the temperature setting as follows:
Set the required temperature as described above
Locate the black dot and insert one pin on each side of the dot
The head cannot be rotated.
NOTE – Floor heating is not a quickly responsive form of heating (like a gas fire) and can take some time to reach the desired temperature. The opposite is also true in that it takes a while for the floor to cool down. For example, if you want the room up to temperature by 8am set the higher temperature to 6am if you stop using at 11pm set the lower temperature setting to 9pm.
Additional Underfloor Heating Products and Assistance
We have tried to put as much in-depth information on our website as possible but if you require any further assistance or have any questions you can contact us here. If you are looking for any additional products please click here to visit our Underfloor Heating Shop.
Installing underfloor heating in a new build house
Although underfloor heating can be installed in homes of any shape and size, there is a strong argument for including a heated floor system to your new build at the design phase. Underfloor heating is easy to installand its energy efficiency will reduce your energy bills considerably. Our underfloor heating kits are designed to suit any kind of floor structure to make life easy, by taking radiators out of the equation you also benefit from substantial space savings. Check out our Solid Floor Underfloor Heating Kits and our Timber Floor Heating Kits.
Is underfloor heating hard to use?
At UK Underfloor Heating we design and supply warm water or wet underfloor heating kits which are designed to be easy to use, and easy to install. With the addition of a smart thermostat, you can also control every aspect of your heating system remotely. Your heated floor system can be split into separate heating zones which can be controlled or de-activated independently meaning you only heat your home when, and where it is needed, no waste of energy.
Underfloor heating works by creating radiant heat that warms the house from the floors up, radiators use convection heating which heats the room in a very uneven manner, with a lot of the warmth settling at the top of the room. Radiant heat is much more efficient than convection heat it heats the home evenly from the ground up. Despite having a large impact on your heating bills and the warmth of your home, underfloor heating is hidden away beneath the floorboards, removing those clunky radiators, freeing up space and saving you money.
Add value and improve your new build home with underfloor heating
Those looking at new builds tend to want to ensure their new home has all of the latest technology, the latest insulation, double glazing, and energy-efficient lighting, the same goes for a heating system. Building a new home with heated floors shows the customer that you have paid attention to detail, and you are helping make their home future proof.
Efficient underfloor heating systems can reduce your energy bills and in a world where energy prices are constantly increasing, underfloor heating systems are becoming more and more popular with many customers. Have you ever thought how underfloor heating can actually improve the way your home looks? You may not think that you notice your radiators but when you have been in a home without them you will be struck by how much simpler and more striking a room can look without them – the interior design options are endless.
Modern smart thermostats are a great way to truly get the most out of your heating system, programme each zone separately and geo-fence your system so it turns on when you are on your way home, no wasted energy heating a home you are not in, and no more going home to a cold home.
Underfloor Heating Questions?
Still got a few questions? Not sure which system is right for you? Or maybe you don’t quite get why radiant heat is so much more efficient than convection heating? No problem, pick up the phone and ask us on 0800 232 1501
There are two main types of underfloor heating, one is powered by your homes electricity mains, the other is uses hot water from your boiler to heat your floors via a manifold. Both are great ways of heating your home but here are a few pro’s and con’s to help you make your decision.
Water Underfloor Heating Systems
Water-based underfloor heating systems are a great way to ensure you reduce your heating costs in the long term. A warm water underfloor heating system uses a thermostat and a manifold that is connected to your boiler, this helps to control the amount of heat being generated and avoid the higher running costs that an electric system may generate.
A warm water underfloor heating system is also very reliable even during the colder months, it is during these months that a water system can save you money over an electric system, power companies have been known to increase energy rates during peak hours. Underfloor heating systems are a lot easier to install with two or more people, however, one of the benefits an electric system has over a water-based underfloor heating system is that it is slightly easier to install.
A water-based underfloor system can be a little more complex due to the piping involved and any troubleshooting that may be required. Underfloor heating using water is a little more costly in the set-up phase, however, the running costs are much cheaper.
Electric Underfloor Heating Systems
Electric underfloor heating is a good option if you are looking to install it in a small space, and time is of the essence. A water-based underfloor system can take longer to install, and you are likely to require some assistance for at least part of the installation, whereas an electric underfloor heating system is relatively simple to install solo.
All this being said it is always important to ensure that you have a qualified electrician on hand to connect the installation to your mains supply. Ideally, an electric underfloor system is best suited to a small area, typically one or two rooms, this is because the running costs of an electric based system tend to be higher than that of a water-based underfloor heating system. An electric underfloor system is easier and cheaper to install, but long-term they tend to be more expensive.
If you are looking at a larger install over numerous rooms then a water-based underfloor heating system will definitely save you money over time, by using thermostats you can control the energy usage a lot easier. If you use a smart thermostat then this allows you even finer control of your underfloor heating system and reduces your energy bills even further.
Under Floor Heating Questions
If you have any questions or queries about which type of underfloor heating system is best for you, feel free to give us a call 0800 232 1501. Or if you are ready to go ahead and make a purchase click here to visit our online underfloor heating store.
Ground source heat pumps harness solar energy captured by the ground. The heat is transferred via a network of pipes buried under the surface of your garden or by using a series of vertical boreholes up to 100m deep. This heat is then used to power a buildings heating system. The temperature below the surface remains pretty constant throughout the year meaning that the GSHP system can be used year round.
The pipe network which is often referred to as a ground loop or a ground array is laid approx. 1.2m under the surface and is filled with a mixture of antifreeze and water. This ground loop then absorbs solar energy stored in the ground heat is then extracted by using expression and contraction technology, this energy is then fed in through your heating system.
The amount of heat your GSHP generates depends on the length of your ground loop, if you have a larger home to heat then you will need a larger ground loop. If space is of a premium another option may be to drill a vertical borehole, the deeper the borehole the more heat energy will be available. Typically an 8kW ground source heat pump would require 3 vertical boreholes of depths between 70-100m. These heat pumps can be connected to your underfloor heating system and controlled by modern smart thermostats.
Air Source Heat Pumps and Government Renewable Heat Incentive (RHI)
Air source heat pumps use renewable heat energy extracted from the air outside and use this warm air to heat your home. Although the system uses electricity it is still a very green source of renewable heat energy.
These air source pumps work exceptionally well with underfloor heating due to the low input temperature needed for underfloor heating. Some benefits of using air source heat pumps are lower energy bills, barely any maintenance and upkeep, they can heat your home and water and there is even a government scheme called the Renewable Heat Incentive which offers quarterly cash payments to homeowners who install and use this type of system. (Full details are available on the gov.uk website.)
Air source pumps are also simpler to install than ground source pumps as the installation doesn’t involve digging and laying metres of piping. If you are looking for other way to make your home more eco-friendly and energy efficient you can read more here.
How Ground Source Heat Pumps work with Underfloor Heating Systems
Ground source heat pumps and underfloor heating go hand in hand, not only are they both extremely energy efficient methods of generating heat and warmth but they also work on a similar level of heat input. Radiators have a relatively small surface area in comparison to the rooms they are required to heat, to compensate for that they need to generate a lot of heat to warm the room.
Underfloor heating systems, by contrast, have a much much larger heating surface area, the entire floor plan of the room. This combined with the use of radiant heat vs the convection heat generated by radiators means that an underfloor heating system can operate as effectively at a much lower heat level.
Benefits of a Ground Source Heat Pump based Heating System.
A ground source heat pump harnesses the heat already being generated by the earth, meaning that they do not draw down from the national grid, or gas network, so no more high heating bills. Not only is a ground source/underfloor heating system more effective at heating your home it is a much, much greener and economic method of generating heat. If you are an environmentally conscious kind of person looking to reduce your carbon footprint this could be a great option for you to consider.
Is a ground source heat pump right for me?
It is worth noting that the upfront cost of setting up a GSHP system can be quite prohibitive, with prices ranging anywhere between £10K-£18K, the commonly accepted budget figure is £1200 per kW capacity. These costs are paid back over a number of years through drastically reduced energy bill as well as potential subsidies given out by the government. It is a lot easier to incorporate a ground source heat pump into your home at the design phase which is why they are most common in new build homes. It is also important to ensure that your home is well insulated to stop heat escaping, and while the ground loop tends to come with a warranty of 2-3 years they should last you 20+ years.
Contact Us
If you have questions about this or anything else relating to underfloor heating feel free to pick up the phone and give us a call, we will be happy to help – 0800 232 1501.
What are the best types of floor coverings for underfloor heating?
There are many different floor coverings available. This article will discuss the basic 5 to give you information about suitable flooring for your underfloor heating. If you require any information on specific floor coverings please Contact Us or speak to the manufacturer directly.
Underfloor Heating with Engineered Timber Floor
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Engineered timber floors work well with underfloor heating. These timber floors will need acclimatising to the room so they do not shrink after the heating is turned on, these floors should have a low moisture content and should not exceed 22mm in thickness. These floors can be screwed to timber battens or glued to screeded floors and the floor temperature must not exceed 27°C. Please check with manufacturer guidelines.
Underfloor Heating with Carpet
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Carpet can work with underfloor heating but is not the best method. The TOG rating of the carpet and underlay together should not exceed 1.5 TOG.
Underfloor Heating with stone base floor coverings
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Marble, Slate, Limestone, Polished Screed, Flagstones & Ceramic Tiles These floor coverings work best with under floor heating because they are made of the most thermally conductive materials which means the heating transfers easier & quicker. These coverings should be laid with no air gaps (Laid on full beds). The thickness of these floor coverings will have no effect on the output of your under floor heating but may slow down the warm up times.
Underfloor Heating with laminate
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Laminate floors works well over underfloor heating in screed and timber floors. The use of insulating underlay will delay or hamper the transfer of heat into the room. It is recommended to lay a non insulating underlay usually a plastic film of about 0.2 mm thick. Please check with manufacturer for recommended fitting methods.
Underfloor Heating with Lino and Amtico
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Lino and amtico floors work well with underfloor heating because can be installed over concrete, timber and Brio board floors. You might need to install a floor sensor so the floor temperature is kept under a comfortable 27 degrees. Please check with manufacturer for recommended fitting methods.
For a free, no obligation quote simply click the button below. We can also offer advice and answer any underfloor heating related questions you have along the way.
If you’ve been looking into installing underfloor heating, having heard of all the fantastic benefits it can do for the warmth of your home, then you’ve no doubt already started considering how Underfloor heating works? The answer is that it’s fairly simple – while on the face of it underfloor heating can be new territory to anyone used to a simple boiler and radiator system, but it is in actuality very easy to install and understand once you’ve been pointed in the right direction.
Will Underfloor Heating Work with my Current Heating System?
The good news is that underfloor heating can work with any heating system that exists within your home, regardless of age – meaning that it’s extremely versatile. Warm water is pumped through from either your heat source e.g. Boiler and is forwarded to a central manifold.
The manifold’s job is to mix both the warm water being pumped to it and cooler return water from the floor heating, making sure that the temperature stays relatively level between 30 and 65 degrees. This mix of water is then pumped throughout the lengths of pipe beneath the floor, allowing the area to become continuously warm for as long as you have your thermostat switched on.
This allows the system to simply work like that of a large low temperature storage radiator. Depending on the size and shape of the room in question, you can have multiple loops of pipe beneath your floor, though this will be an option available to you once you are clear on your dimensions!
From there, the floor will be able to absorb the warmth from the piping beneath, allowing your tiles, carpet or wooden overlay to grow warm steadily and within the parameters you set via your individual thermostat.
The whole system becomes a large storage radiator and it is therefore able to be used at a relatively low temperature – meaning that unlike many basic radiators that need to be scorching hot to fill a room with warmth, the benefits of allowing the warmth to flow up through the floor means that you won’t normally need to set your starting temperature particularly high to feel the benefits.
What should be worth noting is that depending on whether you wish to use a ‘wet’ (water based) or ‘dry’ (electricity based) underfloor heating supply, you must always consult the services of a trained plumber or electrician when connecting to a central boiler or electrical supply and using your service.
While the underfloor heating we provide is very easy to install and understand, we must always stress the importance of arranging for the relevant professionals to aid you if you are undertake any maintenance relating to these essential supplies within your home.
We are here to help you find the parts you need for your underfloor heating system. Any manufacturer, any age, we’ll do our best to locate what you need!
Our spares and repairs sourcing service means that if your system breaks down or requires spare parts, we will find you the exact parts you need, leaving you safe in the knowledge that you are buying the correct item and also that we will only source parts that are safe, high quality and reliable. We can help with:
Replacement underfloor heating products
Old underfloor systems
Broken underfloor heating parts
Upgrading your existing underfloor heating system
We source for all systems, makes and models
Submit the form below and an underfloor heating expert will we be in touch as soon as possible to discuss your options.
Profix panels are formed plastic panels that fit together to form a unique low profile underfloor heating pipe retention system. The panels are simple to fix directly to the floor and the pre-formed grooves help you lay the pipe in the perfect position quickly and easily.
Profix underfloor heating systems can be laid straight down onto any existing floor type to provide a quick and hassle free underfloor heating system with a very high heat output. These warm water underfloor heating systems provides excellent response times compared to many traditional methods due to the excellent insulation value of the screed.
Low profile heating systems can add as little as 15mm to your floor, making them excellent heating options for homes that don’t allow much floor build up or homes with low ceilings. Traditional underfloor heating options raise the floor by much more which can mean they can be unsuitable for many buildings.
Installing a low profile underfloor heating system yourself can be very straightforward but we are always here to offer advice or support if you are unsure about any aspects of installing your own heating system.
‘Pipe Centres’ in context of underfloor heating is very simply the distance between two pipes. The measurement is taken from the centre of one pipe to the centre of the next. The diagram below shows the difference between 150mm pipe centres and 200mm pipe centres.
How far apart should my underfloor heating pipes be laid?
We recommend laying your pipes either 150mm or 200mm apart depending on the room. For example; If your underfloor heating pipes are 150mm apart, you will need more pipe to cover the floor than if your pipes were 200mm apart. Your pipes will be closer together and you will use more pipe to cover the area but the heat output will be much higher. This is recommended for areas and rooms with high heat loss such as conservatories. If you have a room that is well insulated or has little heat loss, having your underfloor heating pipes further apart is the most efficient way to heat the space.
If you are thinking about purchasing an underfloor heating system and are unsure about any details, call us on 0800 232 1501 and we will advise you of the best way to go forward. Alternatively you can get an underfloor heating quote today and we will design the perfect underfloor heating system for your specific requirements.
Click the “Let’s Go” button above and we will guide you towards the heating system that will best suit your needs. Alternatively, scroll down to find all the information you need about our various underfloor heating systems.
Unsure what you need? Let us help, that’s what we’re here for!
Sometimes called ‘Overboard’ or ‘Overlay Underfloor Heating’, Retrofit is an easy to install underfloor heating system that can be added over your existing floor. It is becoming very popular with homeowners due to the fact there is no digging or excavating involved, the new underfloor heating system is installed directly on top of your existing floor. This saves a lot of time and mess and can be installed at any point.
Older underfloor heating systems had to be designed/built in during the floor construction but retro-fit now means that anyone can have underfloor heating fitted in their property without the need for any major building work. There are numerous DIY kits available both online and in the shops which are great but we feel that for the best results you should measure the area you are wanting to heat and then submit your details for a quote.
This way you get exactly what you need, no stress, no waste and you can rest assured that the system will fit perfectly in your home.
Anyone can have retro-fit underfloor heating in their home without tearing up existing floors
Installation is quick, simple and without any major disruption
Prices from only £30 per square metre
Which Retrofit Underfloor Heating Option is Best For Your Home?
There are 3 main types of retrofit underfloor heating that we offer, each comes with its own benefits and considerations depending on the finished floor height, floor covering etc.
Using Profix panels in your retrofit means that you will have the smallest possible build up height, and the smallest possible increase to your overall floor height. The heating system uses 12mm pipe and only adds 15mm build up in total to your original floor height which is great for properties with lower ceilings that cannot afford to lose much headroom. Once the profix system is installed and the screed has dried it can be tiled over and is ready for use. Another major benefit to using a low profile profix system is that the heat from the pipes is transferred efficiently across the floor and the finished system has a very high heat output.
Not sure where to start?
The best way to ensure that you get things exactly right is to measure your room and get a quote. This way you will have a definite price in mind to budget to, as well as knowing that your underfloor heating system will be designed specifically to fit your home and contain everything you need to work with your type of flooring. Our kits are built to order, everything is guaranteed and we also price match any like for like system.
Benefits of a Low Profile Profix Underfloor Heating System
Minimal 15mm build up
Ready to tile over
High Heat Output
Screed Replacement Hi-Deck Retro Fit Underfloor Heating System
Hi-deck underfloor heating systems incorporate grooved, screed-replacement boards that are fixed directly to your existing floor and then the underfloor heating pipes are fed through. These grooved boards are made from a cement-based compound which provides an excellent spread of heat throughout the floor. The overall floor build up height for this method is 18mm using 12mm underfloor heating pipes.
Profoil Insulated Underfloor Heating Systems
The profoil system is an excellent underfloor heating option for many people as it is the quickest and ‘cleanest’ method of installing underfloor heating on an existing floor. The system involves fitting foil backed insulation boards to your existing floor which both insulate your floor and reflect all the heat up into the room. Another benefit to installing a profoil heating system is that it is a completely dry process which means no screed to cure and dry out, and no mess! It is also very quick to install and the new floor can be added as soon as the system is in place. This method is the most energy efficient but it involves a larger floor build up of 25mm (using 16mm pipe) which may not be possible in some buildings depending on ceiling height.
Benefits of Using a Profoil Underfloor Heating System
Dry Fit, no mess.
No drying time
The floor can be boarded over and used straight away
Here at UK Underfloor Heating we pride ourselves on designing the perfect solution for each individual project. We can design a fantastic system to heat your home effectively and because our systems are designed to fit your bespoke sizes, you don’t have to worry about ordering too much pipe or not ordering the right parts. We do all the hard work for you.
Feel free to get in touch with any questions, queries or general underfloor heating advice you require using our Contact Us form, or by giving us a call on 0800 232 1501.
In the room or rooms that you are heating find the best place to locate your manifold so it is close and easy to get to each room or rooms and mount your manifold to the wall. The manifold should be fixed so the underfloor heating pipe work can be easily connected into the bottom body of the manifold.
2. Lay the Fixing Rails
Lay out the fixing rail on top of the floor insulation, depending on the length of the room there will usually be 3 or 4 runs of fixing rail. Once all the fixing rail is laid out fix it down with the insulation clips provided. Fix the fixing rail about 500mm away from the wall at the side of the room where the pipe work will enter. The other side of the room should be fixed about 300mm from the wall. See diagrams.
3. Lay the easy-to-use Alpert Underfloor Heating Pipe
Next you need to connect one end of the Easy to use Alpert Underfloor Heating pipe to the top port of the manifold.
Once this is connected you can then start to lay out the Underfloor Heating pipe into the fixing rails securing with insulation clips in the spaces in between the fixing rail and at the end of each pipe run until all your Underfloor Heating pipe is laid.
(The recommended maximum loop should be no longer than 120m).
Once you have all your pipe laid out and fixed down you need to return the end of your pipe back to the manifold and connect it into the bottom port of the manifold.
4. Filling your Underfloor Heating System
The system can be filled up and pressure tested using a hosepipe and the manifold mounted pressure gauge.
5. Connect your Manifold to the Boiler
Click the links below to view or download the relevant plumbing and wiring diagrams for your project and get your underfloor heating system up and running!
You will be very happy to learn that you can now control your central heating and hot water from free smartphone control apps whether you are at work, rest or play, at home or away. Is your current heating system so easily controllable from wherever you are? Or are you at the mercy of an overcomplicated programmer that you have to go upstairs to adjust when you are home?
Direct Control over your Heating
The Heatmiser NeoApp gives you direct, personal control over your central heating timers and thermostats; it doesn’t matter if they are in your sizzling stylish apartment in the city or in your cosy cottage in the country, at the flick of an on-screen icon you can have your underfloor heating revving up while on your commute home or even if you notice it’s turned nippier than normal while out walking the dog on a crisp, Autumn day.
Using Heatmiser you will save more money than ever because you don’t have to have the heating running on auto-pilot present timers while you aren’t there. Are you presently able to say, hand on heart, that you are in control of how much money you are spending on your heating and hot water? Or is your money trickling through your fingers while your heating is on and you are out? Save money on heating bills and order your Smartphone Enabled Products today!
On-Demand Heating Control
Say goodbye to complicated controls where multi zoned systems give you a programming headache. Heatmiser makes all heating programming as simple as a single zone system and gives you easy, on-demand control over up to 32 zones independently: you can put all your heating and hot water in to holiday mode, put all the thermostats into Setback mode.
You can copy temperature settings from one thermostat to another. Are you currently in control of your heating program like this, or is it in control of you?
Are you an energy ostrich, with your head in the sand, or are you willing to take charge of the situation? The feel-good factor that will leave you aglow from using Heatmiser in conjunction with UK Underfloor Heating is already well established
Call UK Underfloor Heating on 0800 232 1501or fill in this Quote Form for a free quote today.
Purchase your Heatmiser Thermostat today to get started on smartphone controlled heating! Here’s what some of our previous clients have to say:
“I love how in control of my underfloor heating and energy bills Heatmiser puts me, I save so much money now, which means I get the luxury of toasty-warm feet while also still being able to afford to go on holiday a few times a year!” – Katie Spencer, Marketing Consultant, Hampshire.
“Before I had Heatmiser I wasted so much money on my pre-set heating program, just because I was too lazy to change it and had it running for hours at a time when I was out!” – Philip Norton, Banker, London.
“The Geo location setting saves me even more money on my energy bills. This setting automatically reduces the temperature when I go to work or the shops, and then raises the temperature when it detects when I’m nearly home regardless of the programmes I have set. This means the boiler isn’t on wasting gas when I’m not home Brilliant” – Amy Askham, Pharmacy Technician, Sheffield.
Underfloor heating systems can vary greatly in price based on the size of the area to cover. There are numerous cheap UFH kits available online but many of these often contain sub-standard parts and non-branded equipment.
This sounds like a great way to save money but you can run into a lot of trouble if anything goes wrong, and it can sometimes be impossible to find replacement parts especially for non-branded manifolds and bigger pieces of equipment.
We always suggest looking around so you are confident in what you are buying.
An average price for a good quality, guaranteed underfloor heating system is anything from £395.00 + vat for 20sqm.
Click the button below to download our Bathroom Installation manual
Whether you are taking on a home DIY project, or a tradesman installing a system for your customer, our bathroom underfloor heating installation guide will help make the process of installing your underfloor heating system effortless.
With easy to follow steps, we will guide you through the full process. If you have any questions or need further assistance with your underfloor heating then please reach out to our support team on 0800 232 1501 and we will be happy to offer you advice and answer any questions you have.
Water based underfloor heating can be operated from many different heat sources from traditional boilers to low temperature heat pump systems.
Any method of heating water can be used to run a water based underfloor heating system including gas boilers, oil boilers and even electric boilers.
As heat pumps gain popularity everyone is looking at upgrading their heating system to get the greatest benefit. Water based underfloor heating and heat pumps go hand in hand and are efficient when used together as water based underfloor heating can operate at the lower input temperatures a heat pump can provide.
Both air source and ground source heat pumps can be used with water based underfloor heating.
If you would like a chat with our heating experts we would be happy to offer advice and suggestions. Click here to contact us.
A lot of people are unsure whether they can install underfloor heating in their home. The short answer is yes!
Every property can have underfloor heating in one method or another and do away with those unsightly radiators.
Depending on your floor type, water-based underfloor heating can be installed in brand new screeded floors, wooden joisted floors and even over the top of existing concrete floors and floorboards in various systems.
This means that no house can’t have underfloor heating, and underfloor heating can be installed in every floor and room of your house.
Whether you have all the space in the world, or can only allow the smallest build-up, there is an underfloor heating system that can meet your needs!
To find out which system would be ideal for your property, click here to contact us today, and let our expert staff show you your options.
When deciding to have water based underfloor heating you may think it isn’t suitable depending on the floor covering you are wanting.
However, you might be pleased to hear that most floor finishes can be laid over the top of water based underfloor heating. These include tiles, laminate floors, engineered wood flooring, LVT and even carpet (low tog).
Some LVT when using a glue is classed as heat sensitive so will not want to exceed a certain floor surface temperature provided by the manufacturer. If this is the case, we can supply a floor probe to limit the floor surface temperature and prevent any issues.
If you are planning on installing a specific type of floor and would like to know if your new floor covering will work with a water-based underfloor heating system, then contact us today by clicking here.
When referencing a ‘Low Profile’ or ‘Overlay’ underfloor heating system, we are referring to a water-based underfloor heating system that has a minimal height build up for use over the top of an existing floor.
This enables water based underfloor heating to be installed in existing properties without the need to pull up the existing floor with a height gain as little as 15mm before the final floor finish (e.g. tiles).
There are many overlay underfloor heating solutions suited for different height build ups, floor finishes and heat sources (e.g. gas boiler).
Contact us to find out which system is most suitable for your property and get a quotation today.
Water-based underfloor heating is the method of heating your property using pipework in the floor rather than using traditional radiators.
How does underfloor heating work?
How it works is that warm water travels through pipework embedded in your floor, transferring its heat into a thermal mass (screed/concrete).
This heat is then retained in the floor and in turn transferred into the air of your room.
By heating the floor rather than the air directly, your room stays warmer for longer, as well as giving a much more even heat distribution. (It is often the case in rooms with radiators that you get cold spots, and two people sitting in the same room can be at completely different temperatures ).
A key feature of water based underfloor heating is that with the inclusion of the thermal mass the system can run at a lower input temperature from the heat source (e.g. boiler) than with traditional radiators.
This means that less fuel is used to heat the water when compared to radiators and with the thermal mass retaining the heat it can continuously provide stored heat into the room once the system has switched off and stopped using fuel.
When choosing a thermostat for your underfloor heating there are two main options, wired or wireless.
Wired Underfloor Heating Thermostats
A wired thermostat needs a cable to be run from the thermostat location to the manifold for power and to turn the system on.
Wireless Underfloor Heating Thermostats
A wireless thermostat does not need a cable and relies on batteries for power. The thermostat communicates to a receiver wired in at the manifold location.
Both types of thermostats can be controlled via an app on a smartphone with the inclusion of a hub.
When asking which underfloor heating system is best, the main question here is: which is better – water based underfloor heating or electric underfloor heating?
A water based underfloor heating system can act as the primary heat source for a property without the need for additional heat from traditional radiators, whereas an electric underfloor heating system will still need traditional radiators to control the air temperature.
Electric underfloor heating systems although cheaper to install than water based underfloor heating systems are more costly to run due to the high cost of electricity. Water based systems operate at lower input temperatures than traditional radiators so less fuel is required to heat the water to a suitable temperature to heat the room whether this be from a gas, oil or an electric boiler.
If you’re planning to install an electric heating system because of the cheaper installation costs, it is important to remember to factor in the cost of the additional radiators, fitting and plumbing and see if this is still a cheaper option.
Water based underfloor heating can be run in two main ways.
Thermostat Programmes
The underfloor heating thermostats can be set with different times and temperatures to suit your property. For example, the heating can be set to come on at 6am at a temperature of 21 degrees. The next programme at 7:30am is set at 17 degrees whilst the house is empty so that if the temperature outside plummets the heating will kick in and ensure the house doesn’t get cold before the next ON period in the afternoon.
Nonprogrammable
This is when the thermostat is either ON or OFF at a set temperature. For example, if the temperature is set at 21 degrees the system will attempt to achieve this and won’t switch off until either it reaches the set temperature or is turned down at the thermostat.
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