Each project is different. In most cases, yes you can and we are always willing to discuss any queries you may have regarding installing underfloor heating in your home.
Underfloor heating can cost anything from £395.00 + vat for 20sqm.
Yes Underfloor heating can connect to any heat source, electric/gas/oil boiler solar or ground source heat pump
Yes Underfloor heating can be laid in a timber floor there are two methods please see Floor Constructions
Underfloor heating can be laid on a concrete floor as long as the floor already has insulation under the concrete if not insulation would have to be laid on top see Floor Constructions
If you damage a pipe you can repair it by using a compression socket. This is very rare as you do not need to drill through the floor after it has been laid.
Yes as long as the floor is insulated or can be insulated see Floor Constructions
If the floor is already insulated it would lift you’re floor by 43mm, 25mm timber battens with pipes between using screed or aluminium plates. Then a structural floor i.e. 18mm chipboard floor
Any competent person can lay underfloor heating see 5 Easy Steps
Any floor covering can be laid, stone/tile floor are the best at transferring heat, carpet needs to have a maximum tog rating of 1.5. Floor coverings Any questions please CONTACT US
Yes on average between 15-40% because of the low running temperature usually between 30-55 degrees
Underfloor heating is controlled by either programmable room thermostats in all the rooms or by room thermostats in every room and a overall time control (Programmable room thermostat or Time clock)
The maximum length of pipe for 1 loop is usually between 100m-120m.
If you know exactly where the kitchen units are going then you would not put underfloor heating under them because it would warm the units and its contents (pre cooked food). Baths / showers don’t usually have underfloor heating under them because you have to fix through the floor.
Yes underfloor heating does work well in conservatories because it will have its own thermostat control which you need to comply with part L of the building regulations and the heat being lost through the roof is reduced considerably.
No you just need something to cut the pipe, an adjustable spanner and a hose pipe.
Yes the boiler pump only pumps water to the manifold then the manifold pump circulates the water around the floor.
Yes you need a Part P qualified electrician
Yes, you need a manifold so you can lower the water temperature and circulate the water around the floor.
Underfloor heating can take up to 3 hours to warm up from stone cold. This is dependent on heat losses in the room and the amount of screed on top. The initial warm up period will take longer because the floor is cold. The floor will warm up quicker once the heating is up and running because the floor will still be warm from the previous heat cycle. The optimum way to run underfloor heating is to maintain the building at a constant temperature using set back settings on programmable thermostats.
The underfloor heating pipework has a manufacturers warranty of 50 years.
Check the head on the underfloor heating manifold is open and pump and boiler has fired up. Check the return valve on the manifold is open. This is located on the bottom left hand side, underneath the nickel plated dust cap open this by using a 6mm allan key.
Check the thermostat is calling for heat
Check the batteries in thermostat (if applicable)
Check flow and return valves are open.
Check plastic caps on the top body are open turn anticlockwise (single zone manifold).
If the actuator valves are open and pump and boiler has fired up check the Flow & Return Ball valves on the manifold (Multi zone manifold).
Check under caps on the bottom body use 5mm alan key (anticlockwise) and slotted screwdriver (single zone manifold).
Check the flow gauges are open. Pull off orange cap and turn flow gauges anti-clockwise (multi zone manifold).
Check that the thermostats are opening the right actuators.